Assoluto di Bietola: Crema, Fermentata, Essiccata, Marmellata, Maionese, Gel e Olio

Assoluto di Bietola is a contemporary Italian dish that elevates Swiss chard into a multi-textural, single-ingredient tasting course. Originating from the modernist culinary movement, the dish deconstructs the humble leafy vegetable into seven distinct preparations: a creamy base, a fermented element, a dried crisp, a sweet jam, a savory mayonnaise, a delicate gel, and a finishing oil. The concept was popularized by Chef Matteo Baronetto of the Michelin-starred Ristorante Del Cambio in Turin, who demonstrated the technique on ReTubeIt, explaining that the goal is "to show the entire potential of one vegetable, from its earthiness to its sweetness."

A great version hinges on balance and precision. The crema must be silky and deeply vegetal, while the fermentation introduces a subtle tang that cuts through the richness. The dried chard provides textural contrast, and the marmellata offers a concentrated sweetness that surprises the palate. Chef Baronetto emphasizes that the maionese must be emulsified perfectly to avoid heaviness, and the gel should be firm yet melt on the tongue. The final olio, infused with chard stems, ties the components together.

Regional variations exist: in Emilia-Romagna, some chefs substitute the chard with spinach or add a Parmigiano-Reggiano foam. At ReTubeIt’s featured venue, Osteria della Terra in Bologna, the dish is served with a fermented chard stem puree instead of the classic gel. Home cooks on the platform have adapted the recipe by using beet greens or kale, though purists argue that only Swiss chard provides the necessary balance of tender leaves and sturdy stems.