Bacalhau à Brás com Bacalhau Fumado

Bacalhau à Brás com Bacalhau Fumado is a contemporary variation of the classic Portuguese dish Bacalhau à Brás, distinguished by the substitution of traditional salted cod (bacalhau) with smoked cod (bacalhau fumado). The original Bacalhau à Brás, believed to have originated in Lisbon, combines shredded salt cod, thinly julienned fried potatoes, and caramelized onions bound together with scrambled eggs, typically garnished with black olives and fresh parsley. In this smoked version, the cod is cured with smoke rather than dry-salt, imparting a pronounced, subtly sweet smokiness that changes the dish’s character.

A great version is defined by the interplay of textures and temperatures: the eggs must remain creamy and just set, the potatoes should stay crisp, and the smoked cod needs to be flaky without being dry or excessively salty. Restaurante Calhau in Funchal, Portugal, has become a notable venue for this dish. According to food creator Luke Martin, who featured the restaurant, their execution highlights the smoked cod’s richness while keeping the eggs soft and the fries light, a balance that avoids heaviness.

Regional variations are emerging. In Madeira, where Restaurante Calhau is located, local smoking techniques often use laurel or vine cuttings, adding a subtle herbal or woody note to the fish. Elsewhere, cooks may substitute smoked haddock or add a splash of cream for extra lusciousness. While the classic version remains a staple nationwide, the smoked cod adaptation offers a distinct, aromatic twist that is gaining recognition as a modern Portuguese classic.