Cicorietta Ripassata

Cicorietta Ripassata is a traditional Umbrian contorno (side dish) originating in the central Italian region, particularly around Sant'Anatolia di Narco. The name combines *cicorietta* (a local wild chicory) with *ripassata* ("re-passed"), referring to the technique of blanching the greens first and then sautéing them a second time with aromatics. Key ingredients include the tender wild chicory, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, and peperoncino (chili flakes); some cooks add a few anchovies for depth, though this is debated locally. A great version achieves a delicate balance between the chicory’s natural bitterness and the richness of the oil and garlic. The greens must be blanched just until tender, then drained and squeezed dry before being “re-passed” in a hot pan with olive oil and garlic until they are wilted but still retain a slight bite. Overcooking leads to a mushy texture and muted flavor. Regional variations are subtle but meaningful: in Umbria proper, the dish is often left rustic and lean, while in neighboring Lazio it may incorporate pancetta or a splash of balsamic vinegar. At Ristorante L’Abbazia in Sant’Anatolia di Narco, the chef — as noted by creator JustUs — prepares a version that highlights the purity of the wild greens, using only local olive oil and a whisper of chili. This adherence to simplicity is what sets the Umbrian interpretation apart. Cicorietta Ripassata remains a staple of cucina povera, transforming foraged greens into a bold, satisfying side that pairs naturally with roasted meats or hearty bean soups.