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Frappe

Frappe at Forno Pasticceria Borgo Inglese

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Forno Pasticceria Borgo Inglese · Vercelli

The story

Frappe—known across Italy as chiacchiere, cenci, bugie, or lasagne della nonna—are a classic Carnival pastry. Their origin is debated, with some tracing them to ancient Roman *frictilia* (fried dough) and others to medieval convents that used leftover egg yolks and liqueur. The core ingredients remain simple: flour, eggs, butter, sugar, and a splash of spirit such as Vin Santo or Marsala, which inhibits gluten development for a delicate crunch. The dough is rolled thin, cut into ribbons or rhombuses, fried in hot oil until puffed and golden, then dusted with powdered sugar.

A great frappe is distinguished by its texture: ethereally light, shatter-crisp, and never greasy. The ideal version shows irregular bubbles, a sign of proper resting and high-temperature frying. Over-incorporation or skimping on fat yields a tough, biscuit-like result.

Regional variations abound. In Tuscany they are called *cenci* and often cut into long strips; in Liguria *bugie* are twisted and sometimes filled with honey or custard. In Vercelli, a small Piedmontese city, Forno Pasticceria Borgo Inglese offers a version that, according to a negative review by Franchino Er Criminale, disappointed in texture and flavor—an illustration of how even traditional bakeries can miss the mark. Despite such risks, the best frappe remain a beloved symbol of Carnevale, celebrated for their crisp simplicity.

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