Dish

Mandilli de Sea

Mandilli de Sea at Trattoria Sapesta

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Trattoria Sapesta · Genova

The story

Mandilli de Sea is a traditional pasta dish from Genoa, Liguria, characterized by its large, handkerchief-shaped sheets of egg pasta (mandilli means "handkerchiefs" in the local dialect) served with a rich, nut-free pesto sauce. Unlike the classic pesto Genovese, which relies on pine nuts, the sauce for mandilli de sea traditionally uses walnuts or almonds, blended with basil, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and olive oil. The pasta's broad, thin shape allows it to absorb the creamy, herbaceous sauce, creating a delicate yet intensely flavorful dish.

A great version of mandilli de sea is distinguished by the pasta's texture—silky and tender but with enough bite to hold its shape—and a pesto that is emulsified to a smooth, velvety consistency without being oily or clumpy. The balance of basil, garlic, and cheese should be harmonious, with the walnuts providing a subtle, earthy sweetness. At **Buca di San Matteo** in Genova, as noted by **Restory Food**, the dish is prepared with a particularly refined pesto that highlights the freshness of local basil and the quality of extra-virgin olive oil, making it a benchmark for the style.

Regional variations are minimal, as the dish is deeply tied to Genoese tradition. Some versions may incorporate a touch of cream or a splash of pasta water to loosen the sauce, while others add green beans or potatoes alongside the pasta, a common practice in Ligurian cuisine. Outside of Liguria, mandilli de sea is sometimes confused with lasagna sheets, but its purpose is entirely different—it is a first course meant to showcase the pesto, not a baked casserole.

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Where to eat it

2 places reviewed by YouTube creators.

What creators say

Highlights from 2 creator reviews of Mandilli de Sea.

  • A true institution in Genoa serving an incredible array of traditional Ligurian pies, farinata, mandilli de sea, cima, and sacripantina, all at a fantastic price.

  • An incredible location in a historic well, with traditional Ligurian dishes executed perfectly — a memorable dinner.

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