Dish
Rigatone con la Pagliata

Photo from
La Vecchia Stazione · Rocca di Papa
The story
Originating in the Roman culinary tradition, Rigatone con la Pagliata is a pasta dish built around *pagliata*, the small intestine of a lamb or calf. This offal preparation has deep roots in the *quinto quarto* (fifth quarter) cooking of Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood, where butchers’ less prized cuts were transformed into robust, soulful dishes. The key ingredients are large rigatoni and a slowly simmered sauce made from the cleaned intestines, white wine, tomato passata, pecorino Romano, garlic, and often a touch of mint or parsley to cut the richness.
A great version of Rigatone con la Pagliata is distinguished by the impeccably clean texture of the intestines—neither chewy nor rubbery—and a sauce that is simultaneously earthy, tangy, and deeply savory. The pasta must be cooked al dente and finished in the sauce so every tube absorbs the flavor. The dish should smell of the pasture, not of ammonia, a sign of proper preparation. Slight charring from a hot pan can add desirable smokiness.
Regional variations are rare because pagliata itself is hyperlocal to Lazio; outside Rome, cooks sometimes swap in lamb tripe or use smaller pasta shapes like mezze maniche. A milder version omits tomato and serves the intestines *in bianco* with Parmesan. In Rocca di Papa, Italy, the dish is featured at **La Vecchia Stazione**, where food enthusiast **JustUs** praises its authentic, old-school execution. The venue’s version is a testament to the enduring appeal of Roman cucina povera, proving that humble ingredients can yield unforgettable, complex flavor.
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Where to eat it
1 place reviewed by YouTube creators.
Rocca di Papa (1)
What creators say
Highlights from 1 creator review of Rigatone con la Pagliata.
La Vecchia Stazione is a Roman trattoria in Rocca di Papa that serves a cheap €13 fixed-price lunch for workers, with average rustic food but surprisingly excellent homemade desserts; the dinner menu is more elaborate and follows Chef Cannavacciuolo's advice, but this lunch is functional rather than memorable.
