Dish
Risotto con Funghi, Germoglio di Larice Fermentato e Polveri di Polypodium e Pino Mugo

Photo from
Trattoria La Madia · Aquilini
The story
Risotto con Funghi, Germoglio di Larice Fermentato e Polveri di Polypodium e Pino Mugo is a foraged and fermented risotto that reimagines the forest floor as a plate. The dish originates from the alpine traditions of northern Italy, where larch buds and wild polypodium fern have long been used in folk remedies and rustic cooking. At Trattoria La Madia in Aquilini, Italy—a venue celebrated by the guide *Where The Foodies Go*—the dish is elevated through precise technique and hyper-local sourcing.
Key ingredients include carnaroli or vialone nano rice, a mix of wild mushrooms (often porcini or chanterelles), and the signature elements: fermented larch buds, which contribute a bright, lactic tang, and powders made from dried polypodium fern and mugo pine. The polypodium lends an earthy, slightly sweet note, while the pine powder adds resinous, forest-like aromatics.
What distinguishes a great version is the balance of textures and flavors. The rice must be perfectly al dente, with a creamy emulsion achieved through patient stirring and judicious addition of broth. The fermentation of the larch buds should be subtle—enough to cut through the richness of the mushrooms and butter, but not so assertive as to overwhelm. The powders are dusted tableside or as a final garnish, preserving their volatile oils.
Regional variations might substitute local mushrooms like finferli (chanterelles) or use different conifer species, such as spruce tips in the Dolomites. Some versions incorporate a splash of aged balsamic or a grating of aged mountain cheese, though the purest renditions let the foraged ingredients speak for themselves.
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Where to eat it
1 place reviewed by YouTube creators.
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What creators say
Highlights from 1 creator review of Risotto con Funghi, Germoglio di Larice Fermentato e Polveri di Polypodium e Pino Mugo.
La Madia is a beautiful place with an osteria atmosphere, offering a visionary, angular cuisine full of contrasts—acid, bitter, fermented—that hits you like a slap but leaves you satisfied; the 10-course menu at €55 per person is an incredible value for the quality.
