Tartare di Manzo con Acciughe del Cantabrico, Cipolle Caramellate e Senape

The dish, a preparation of raw minced beef, gains its distinctive character from the inclusion of Cantabrian anchovies, caramelized onions, and mustard—a combination served at Osteria Moderna in Pescia, Italy, as documented by Sentieri Golosi. This variation elevates the classic French beef tartare through two key umami-building ingredients: the salted, cured anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea and the deeply sweet caramelized onions, which together temper the sharpness of the mustard.

A great rendition hinges on the quality of the beef—ideally hand-chopped from a well-marbled cut—and the proper treatment of the anchovies, which should be oil-packed and mild. The caramelized onions must be cooked slowly until jammy, not burnt, and the mustard—often a whole-grain or Dijon—should provide a clean, piquant finish without overwhelming the other elements. At Osteria Moderna, the balance is carefully calibrated so the brininess of the anchovies complements the natural sweetness of the onions while the beef remains the primary textural and flavor focus.

Regional variations abound across Italy. In Piedmont, beef tartare (carnaroli) is often bound with egg yolk, lemon, and truffle oil; in coastal areas, tuna or swordfish replace beef. The addition of Cantabrian anchovies is a nod to Spanish culinary influence, a cross-border flourish that distinguishes this Tuscan preparation. Other modern Italian restaurants might incorporate capers, diced pickled vegetables, or horseradish, but the Osteria Moderna rendition stands out for its elegant integration of sweetness and salinity. The dish is served cool, never ice-cold, and is best accompanied by crisp bread or fried polenta to scoop the tartare.