Tortino di Stoccafisso

Tortino di Stoccafisso is a traditional dish from the Calabrian region of Italy, particularly associated with the town of Mammola. This savory pie centers on stoccafisso (stockfish), air-dried cod that has been rehydrated and flaked. The fish is combined with potatoes, black olives, capers, tomatoes, and local herbs, then baked until golden. The dish reflects Calabria’s historical reliance on preserved fish, brought inland from coastal ports.

A great version achieves a balance between the mild, flaky stockfish and the briny punch of olives and capers. The potatoes should be tender but not mushy, binding the filling without overwhelming the fish. The top should be crisp and browned, while the interior remains moist. Chef Francesco Mazzei, a Calabrian-born restaurateur in London, has praised the dish for its “honest, peasant roots” and the way it “lets the sea and the land speak together.”

At Taverna del Borgo in Mammola, the tortino is prepared according to a family recipe passed down for generations. As noted in the series *Cosa mangiamo oggi?*, the venue’s version is distinguished by the use of locally cured olives and a slow-baking method that deepens the flavors. Regional variations exist across Calabria: some versions add anchovies for extra umami, while others include a layer of melted pecorino or a dusting of breadcrumbs. In coastal towns, the dish may be lighter, with less potato and more tomato.