Risotto with Calamari Ragu

Method

1. Choose a wide, flared pot (stainless steel or copper) and place it over direct flame to heat.
2. Add the Carnaroli rice to the dry hot pot. Toast the rice without any fat, shaking the pot occasionally, until it becomes very hot and starts to 'sing' (sfrigolare). During toasting, season with salt and pepper.
3. Once toasted, begin adding boiling water gradually, a ladle at a time. Always use boiling liquid to avoid thermal shock. Stir the rice gently with a circular motion, accompanying it without being too aggressive.
4. After a few minutes of cooking, add the calamari ragu and a small amount of fish stock. Continue cooking, stirring more frequently because the sugars in the ragu can stick to the bottom.
5. When the rice is al dente (about 12-14 minutes depending on the rice), remove from heat.
6. For mantecatura, add cold butter, extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, and grated cheese. Vigorously shake and stir the pot in a wave-like motion to incorporate air and create a creamy consistency (all'onda).
7. Let the risotto rest for just the time needed to prepare the plating elements. (Do not rest for a long time.)
8. To plate in a can: place a piece of chicken liver at the bottom of the can. Fill with risotto. Top with a grilled calamari fillet, a few pieces of salt-preserved lemon, a drizzle of fish stock, and a pinch of katsuobushi.
9. To plate on a plate: spread the risotto on the plate. Dot with small pieces of chicken liver, pieces of salt-preserved lemon, pieces of grilled calamari, drizzle fish stock, and sprinkle katsuobushi.
10. Serve the risotto warm (not extremely hot, around 55-60°C) so that the flavors are best perceived.